Kanjeevaram Notes

Kanjeevaram silk comes from a town in Tamil Nadu and from a weaving tradition that has outlasted most things around it. Some of mine were bought, several were inherited, and the inherited ones are still the best in the wardrobe.

The weight tells you first

Pure Kanjeevaram silk has a specific density in the hand. It is heavier than it looks and it falls rather than floats. That weight is the first honest signal, before any conversation about price.

Look at the join

The border and body are traditionally woven separately and interlocked. Turn the saree over and look at that join, the pitni. A genuine interlock is visible and slightly ridged, and it is the detail that survives generations of wear.

• Zari that is dull gold rather than bright and plastic-looking.
• A body and border that hold their shape when lifted.
• A pallu with a design that continues properly rather than being printed on.

An old Kanjeevaram is usually better than a new one. That is unusual for a garment.

Caring for them

I never dry clean more than necessary, never hang them, and refold them along different lines every few months so the creases do not become permanent cuts. Muslin cloth, not plastic, and no direct sunlight.

Wearing them more often

The mistake I made for years was saving them. Silk that is never worn deteriorates just as surely as silk that is worn, only without giving you anything in return. I now wear them to ordinary occasions on purpose.